Cuba might well be a socialist country but its fashion is as vibrant as its architecture, as a new generation of creative fashionistas is born. As social media opens up so do the opportunities for self expression. It seems to be a place that everyone wants to be seen, from Rihanna to Beyonce.

Diego and I have an afternoon of street fashion photography with a backdrop that is truly spectacular, Habana Vieja (Old Town). The kit I used for this shoot was a Canon 5D mark IV, Sigma art lens, 35mm 1.4  with a Canon Speed light 600ex-rt, and occasionally my Canon 85mm 1.4 lens. unless stated.  Below are a couple of outtakes that gives you an idea how unstable my good friend Diego is, but then aren’t all creative people? He supplies the models and then I do the rest, when I can get him out of my way.

Street fashion Havana Street fashion Havana

Time for a break as we stop off at Hotel Florida Calle Obisbo, Beatriz takes an opportunity to get behind the camera. Taken on my iPhone x

Street fashion Havana

My theme for the shoot is about how the new generation are fighting out of the socialist norm, whilst others just go about their daily work; hoping that oppression (if you can call it that) will one day, soon be replaced by opportunity and not austerity.  Capitalism is visibly on the rise and recently I heard the phrase social capitalism; is that its future? Cuba after the Castros

Below a street cleaner is surprised by some unexpected attention.

Street fashion Havana

As well as the people on this photoshoot there was also opportunity to enjoy the unique Cuban architecture, it’s hard not to be drawn in by its grandeur, age and beauty. Not a set of adjectives I would usually put in the same sentence but then Havana is no ordinary city.

 

The streets are a plenty with willing and interesting characters, not many shied away by the sight of a large lens staring them down, the man in the cap was more than willing to be involved, even before hearing the brief.

In-between sets there was always an opportunity to catch the girls solo. Question here is colour or black and white? Maybe we can leave that one for another day.

You will see many people in and around Habana Vieja (old town) ready with their unlit cigars waiting for passing tourists. There are two class of people. The official self employed ones in possession of a clearly displayed government card, allowing them to work on the streets legally, and then there is the unemployed opportunist who sits on the fringes away from the official workers but where tourists still roam.

So what is it they exactly do? Well, essentially they are expecting you to pay them for a holiday snap, an image synonymous with a trip to Cuba.  You will see women in colourful traditional dresses adorned with flowers, or less common a Dandy, a well dressed man usually strutting around cane in hand.

Once eye contact is made the act begins, the more eccentric ones charming you into conversation before any talk of an exchange. You will hear them ask for un peso or un dollar, if you refuse to pay charm quickly turns to disappointment, as you are waved away.

Below, an opportunist or a genuine cigar smoker?

One dollar is not much to pay, especially if the picture drew you towards it in the first place. It’s not like you are going to take hundreds, five tourist pictures for five dollars sounds like a bargain to me.

Many of them now have celebrity status, gracing the cover of international magazines. Havana Vieja (old Havana) is a small place and with millions of tourists visiting each year that’s a lot of pictures shared globally, come to think of it that’s a lot of opportunity for dollars.

Where better to organise a photography tour than on a roof-top bar in Havana. The tour consists of just me and Yari a Cuban photography student and English speaking tour guide. We were introduced by a mutual friend and after seeing her passion for photography I decided to take her on a tour of her city, an experience to inspire her further more.

In Cuba good employment opportunities are difficult, but with a growing tourist population and interest in the country increasing all the time, the industry is always on the look out for speakers of foreign languages. Tourist jobs are sought after but only seasonal, leaving 8 months of the year a struggle. Moving away from tourism for something all year-round can be difficult, as getting a position back in the tourist industry is not so easy, since supply now outstrips demand.

If you have a little investment and are industrious, then there are opportunities for self employment, this can provide you with a decent income, but not necessarily the career you long for.

After assessing her skills I’m not sure Yari is ready for street photography, well not just yet,  so I start to look for interesting places from the rooftop bar. I see a building close to us and point it out to Yari as the place we can go try and explore.

Havana Life as we head to the building which is just a few blocks away

  

The building we are heading for is in a dilapidated state but nothing like what we were prepared for. Hurricane Irma had hit Cuba just a few weeks prior and the affects of her still visible, a country already struggling to keep its colonial architecture, its long standing heritage alive.

The charm that attracts millions of visitors to this wonderful city just crumbling away. This imposing building sits along San Miguel, Amistad, and like many large residential buildings in Havana a former hotel from the pre revolutionary days.

The hotel name still clearly visible in what would have once been a grand lobby.

Below an illustrated postcard of the building in its original condition, and an image of how it now looks.

  

Below a skyline view looking towards Vedado, the hotel lifted out with the two lines drawing back to where it stands.

Havana, the hustle and bustle, the sound of music, awash with colour and the odd smell. People talking loudly across streets and apartment balconies, cars blowing out plumes of thick black smoke, clothes hanging from every available space.

It’s an outdoor life akin to no other, a country bearing the marks of socialism the hope of capitalism and the opportunity of tourism. Tourists are attracted by its innocents and charm, but the reality for the people is far from virginal.  

Cuban public transport falls into many categories safe, reliable, comfortable, efficient and available are none of these. As a tourist you have access to better transport, but choose public transport and you will be in for some ride, literally.

If you take a Guagua (bus) and at most times and it will be 40 degrees and you’ll be hugged from all sides, although if you are a regular user of the tube in London you can probably relate to this.

A bus ride will only cost you one local peso about 4 cent, So for many locals its an economic way to get around. If you are in a hurry though take a Colectivo also known as Almendrones a local taxi that will ride along a set route. You will pay about 10 local pesos 40 cent for a one way journey.

Cuba has a long history, but you may be more familiar with the rule of the Castros and the Cuban revolution marking the beginning of its socialistic regime.